Wintersweet

October 7, 2013
The seasonally minded cook will delight in the ingenuity of this tome dedicated to the dark days of winter. Just as the greenmarket inventory guides savory cooking, so can it be the basis for dessert, Inman argues, even in Northeast climes. There are, of course, apples aplenty here (cooked down into pie, and applesauce, but also tucked into cheddar turnovers). Less predictable fruits such as persimmon, quince, and Asian pear make an appearance, while cranberries find their way into a cobbler, and citrus is the basis for such concoctions as Rosemary Meyer Lemon Tart and Grapefruit Custard. Root vegetables are hearty meal-enders with fulfilling flavor, and Inman warms the kitchen and the belly by baking up Parsnip Spice Cupcakes with Maple Frosting, Chocolate Beet Whoopie Pies, and Chai-Spiced Squash Pie. Finally, of course, there are seasonless standbys such as pecan pie, chocolate chip cheesecake bars, and rice pudding. Inman’s breakdown of ingredients is informative yet easily digested, leaving all the more room for ice cream and cookies. Photos.

Starred review from November 15, 2013

Donroe Inman, a food blogger with a culinary degree, has worked for Cook's Illustrated magazine and TV show America's Test Kitchen. Her debut cookbook encourages readers to spend their winters in a warm kitchen preparing comforting seasonal desserts such as pear crostada, brown butter pecan ice cream, and gingersnap-crusted pumpkin cheesecake. These unintimidating recipes, organized by main ingredient (e.g., apples, pears, persimmons, citrus, tubers, nuts, cheese), will inspire bakers to see winter as a time of abundance, not scarcity. VERDICT Like Diana Henry's Roast Figs Sugar Snow: Winter Food To Warm the Soul, this weighty and beautifully photographed cookbook captures the season's best qualities.

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